Dubai grew around its creek, a natural harbour where pearling boats and traders from Persia, India and East Africa once tied up. The Al Fahidi neighbourhood still has the coral-stone houses and wind towers, or barjeel, that cooled homes long before air conditioning.
Across the water in Deira, the spice souk sells saffron, dried limes, rose buds and frankincense by the scoop. Prices are open to friendly negotiation, and late afternoon, when the lanes cool and shopkeepers settle in, is the best time to wander.